Silicone-containing shampoos moisturize hair and prevent frizz, but do they actually work?
What are silicones?
Silicone is an ingredient that is synthesized in the form of silica, the most important mineral in soil. Chemically, it is an inorganic polymer derived from polysiloxane, which consists of a series of alternating silicon and oxygen atoms that form a chain. This chemical property gives it many properties that make it highly valuable for use in a wide range of industrial applications due to its versatility and low manufacturing costs. It is found in lubricants, adhesives, molds, medical and surgical applications, valve and heart prostheses, breast implants, as well as in the cosmetics industry and hair care products such as shampoos, conditioners, masks, waxes, anti-frizz products, tonics, etc. In the latter, they come in the form of oils and gels with a more or less thick texture. ?
What beneficial properties does it have in the hair cosmetic field?
Types of silicones for hair
- It is an emulsifier that helps to mix substances that may not be miscible with each other. Many cosmetic products have an aqueous and an oily phase, and by adding silicones, the mixture of both is emulsified and transformed into a stable homogeneous product. ? It is an emollient that softens the skin and hair, giving the hair a clean, soft and manageable feeling by reducing friction. ? It protects against external influences such as the sun, cold, the environment and high temperatures such as hair dryers and straightening irons. The most insoluble silicones form a layer on the hair that protects it from possible “attacks” and are usually found in thermal hair protectants. ?It is a surfactant. h.It acts as a carrier that ensures that all the components of the product are correctly distributed and facilitates its application.Viscosity corrector to obtain a more fluid or viscous product.It has a moisturizing effect, helping the hair retain moisture and prevent frizz.
Types of silicones for hair
Every cosmetic product has a long list of ingredients, ordered in descending order of the amount present in the product, and named using a kind of international nomenclature called INCI. Silicones are compounds ending in -methicone, -methiconol, -siloxysilicate and compounds containing the word -siloxane- and are usually at the top of the list because they are present in large quantities.
Volatile silicones
They only stay on the hair for a very short time. If you have to rinse the product off, the silicones disappear in the water. In leave-in products, these silicones evaporate over time and disappear from the hair. They are very useful for fine hair with little body, as they add texture and shine. Silicones with the prefix “cyclo” are volatile silicones: cyclopentasiloxane, cyclomethicone…
Insoluble silicones:
These are ones that have a very low affinity for water or a high affinity for hair. Both do not disappear when washed off. Insoluble silicones help give a healthy look to hair that is in very poor condition. They do not restore the hair, but they give the impression of closing the cuticle, giving the hair shine and movement. So insoluble silicones can hide problems in the hair. Insoluble silicones are dimethicone, amodimethicone, polydimethysiloxane, etc. This type of silicone is not suitable for hair that is low in volume and prone to frizz, as it can increase the weight of the hair over time, making it feel heavy or dirty (greasy). Hair, in the beauty industry they are called “deposits”. If deposits are forming on your hair, this is an indication that your hair has been covered with insoluble silicones for a long time without being able to receive oxygen or absorb or penetrate hair nutritional ingredients. In these cases, you should look for a shampoo that contains sulfates, a type of active surfactant that loosens and removes silicones, leaving no residue behind in your hair.
Soluble silicones
These are water-soluble silicones. If they are included in hair products that require rinsing, they will not stay in the hair but will go down the drain. They are very useful for formulating milder shampoos and avoiding possible irritation caused by surfactants. If they are included in finishing hair care products, they will stay in the hair until the next wash, adding shine and moisture without weighing down the hair. Soluble silicones are silicones with the prefix PEG-, silicones that contain the word copolyol, and silicones that end in -methiconol: PEG-3-Dimethicone, PEG-10-Dimethicone, PEG-11-Methyl Ether Dimethicone, PEG -9 -Dimethicone, Dimethylconol, Dimethicone Copolyol…
