Pakistani fashion’s popularity in India comes with trade and marketing challenges, but retail success is evidence of growing demand. Picture this – a campaign shot against the backdrop of a whimsical sunset inside Jaipur’s historic fort, featuring soft-coloured jamawar jackets with nakshi embroidery, angarkhas with kamdani work, baggy isars and ghararas, and long fabric kurtas paired with Dhaka styles. Pyjamas are the centre of attention. Cut by actress Tripti Dimri, who was spotted wearing a belted lehenga with ghara embroidery during a press tour for a recent release. The designer? Not the usual local suspects, but Karachi-born Iqbal Hussain. Each style reflects a particular character: relaxed cuts, short kurtas paired with pencil trousers and other salwar paunchas (hems), or narrow, tulip-like salwars, fine embroidery, and the use of batiste (combed cotton) and raw silk. Aesthetics, “Made in Pakistan”. Husain recently began featuring several designers at his Mumbai retailer Ashni Plus, though founder Ashni Shah declined to comment on the move. Apart from the long-running and complicated socio-political conflict between the two countries, trade relations between India and Pakistan have also been strained, especially since 2019. While imports of clothing are not banned outright, customs duties can reach a whopping 200 percent, making it more difficult to buy and sell products. In this scenario, this makes it a business story as cross-border designers are gaining popularity and recognition in the Indian market.
The Pakistani Presence:
The growing interest in Pakistani designers in India is being driven by cross-cultural exchange on Instagram. Think actress Sonam Kapoor celebrating Dusshera in an Anarkali printed by Lahore-based Zara Shahjahan, or Sara Ali Khan, who has appeared in Iqbal Hussain (uncredited) multiple times for magazine cover shoots. Actress Vaani Kapoor, wearing a fish-cut lehenga by Karachi-based Shehla Chatoor, also recently appeared on the cover of Brides Today (September 2024). Stylists Ami Patel, Tanya Ghavri and Lahore- and Dubai-based designer Faraz Manan are sure to pop up as you scroll through their Instagram feeds. Brands like AOMI are not only notable for their festive and occasion wear, but also for their aesthetic that combines modern style with craftsmanship. Actor Vijay Varma has been spotted on multiple occasions wearing the brand’s customised champa-stitched shirts and handmade bomber jackets.
